Continuous Reign of Platform Shoes
While the classic fashion trend cycle may be heading closer towards complete disruption with each season, there is one trend has persisted even the clever algorithms of Instagram and TikTok — platform shoes. Over the past few months, we have seen Emma Chamberlain stroll the streets of New York in timeless platform loafers, Dua Lipa party in Italy wearing bold platform heels, and every Olivia Rodrigo’s streetstyle look be complete with a chunky sole. With each brand — from Givenchy to DSquared2 to H&M — offering their own models, there is something for everybody. But how did platforms enter our fashion lexicon once more?
When thinking about our hectic daily routines of running errands, going to meetings, or catching up with friends, platform shoes may seem like one of the least practical choices to wear. However, their invention stems from entirely functional purposes. Andrew Tucker, fashion history lecturer at London College of Fashion, explains: “The platform can be traced to a number of origins - the shoes worn by Venetian courtesans to protect them from the streets as they plied their trade in the 1500s, the wooden clogs inlaid with mother-of-pearl worn in the Harems and bathhouses of Ottoman Constantinople (now Istanbul), and a similar version in Japanese public baths, which still exists today - known as ‘geta’.”
After being discarded for a long period of time, the style re-emerged once again in the late 1930s and early 1940s, with the help of legendary shoemakers Salvatore Ferragamo and Roger Vivier. As society became more aware of the importance of physical wellbeing, for the first time, comfort became fashionable. Moreover, rationing during the Second World War meant that shoe manufacturers could no longer use materials such as leather and steel. As an alternative, Ferragamo proposed his now-iconic wedge style, made up of layers of cork — one of the rare resources not rationed —, proving that creativity can truly blossom in times of hardship. Perhaps this is a parallel to our current times?
The next comeback of the style resulted in its most ubiquitous era of all — the 70s. This is when the platforms reached their highest and most extreme. After that followed a brief period in the 90s with the Spice Girls donning the Buffalo sneakers, and who could forget the sight of Naomi Campbell falling down in the 7-inch Vivienne Westwood platforms during the Autumn 1993 collection showcase in Paris?
So, if even catwalk legend Naomi struggles to walk in sky-high platforms, why has the trend come back now? Tucker attributes this to a mixture of things, but mostly the overarching feeling of nostalgia for the 1990s and 2000s. Besides, there is the eternal appeal of the platform. “Martin Margiela said that the two key elements in determining how a silhouette is viewed is the shoulder line and the height of the heel. Platforms add height, can make your legs seem slimmer, change your posture as you walk by throwing your hips forward, and alter the proportion of any outfit.” Therefore, it is no wonder why the platform trend keeps coming back every few years or so.
Despite the style’s many qualities, the fashion landscape today is very fractured and not all trends translate to every audience. While the Italian luxury brand Salvatore Ferragamo may be the historic originator for the style, there is no rush to embrace the latest platform craze. “I wouldn’t say that it’s a trend. We would bring back 1-2 styles every few seasons but not in every collection,” says Niloo, senior sales associate at Ferragamo’s New Bond Street boutique. In 2021, 40,9% of Ferragamo’s assortment was made up of shoes, according to Lectra. The brand’s key strategy to stay competitive with rivals like Gucci and Prada is to ensure that the assortment mix offers a wide variety of styles, resulting in the decision to not embrace ongoing trends.
The fast overturn of trends is especially prevalent among the younger consumer base. “Over 50s stick to their typical type of clothing but just choose the right colours that are on trend and work it in into their already-made wardrobe,” comments Shana, sales assistant at Fenwick’s department store. “The younger people are doing vintage, thrift shopping so they’re mixing old-school styles from the 70s, the 80s and Y2K with the current styles.” Platforms, among other vintage trend revivals, could be an indicator of the younger generation’s frustration with the current times and the longing for different eras of time. Tucker adds that the platform style is actually quite familiar for the modern fashion consumer. “From a practical perspective, platforms are popular as they key into sneaker/trainer aesthetics but also are easier to wear (and less damaging to your feet) than stilettos, which some women find objectifying, and many aren't used to wearing as they have grown up in sneakers.”
There is no denying that platforms will always remain a style staple. And while trends may swing in and out of fashion all the time, there will never be something as uplifting — quite literally — as putting on your favourite platforms. The sky is the limit!